Shispar, Shispare Sar & Peak #33
May, June & July
July 21, 1974 by H. Bleicher, L. Cichy, M. Grochowski, J. Holnicki-Szulc, A. Mlynarczyk, H. Oberhofer, J. Poreba
This peak is situated in the western part of Baltoro glacier in the Batura massif. The nearby glaciers are Hasanabad and Passu. The traditional route to the peak is from Gilgit to Passu via the Karakoram Highway and from there on foot to the peak along Passu glacier. Some foreign maps call it Shispar/Peak No.33 and show its height as 7,611m/24,970ft while the others indicate its height as 7,619m/24,997ft and call it Shispare/Passu. It is better to call it Shispar.
In May 1925, a strong survey-exploratory party of Dr. P.C. Visser reached Gilgit via Astore and established its camp at Passu in early June and surveyed two-third of Passu glacier. The party then went to Shimshal and returned to Passu via Karun Pir for exploring Batura glacier. It was, however, in 1974 that a 16 member Polish-German mountaineering expedition, under the leadership of Janusz Kurczab, climbed the peak for the first time. In a second attempt one member, Heinz Borchers, a German, was burned under an avalanche which hit him above camp 11 (5,700m/18,700ft). Earlier, Borchers had slipped off the buttress edge near camp I and fallen about 1,500 feet, sustaining only minor injuries. The party had hired 110 porters who brought its equipment to Patundas from Passu. The party set up its base camp near Passu glacier. Subsequently it established four camps before an assault on the summit and came down via lower part of Passu glacier. According to the party, this is a much better route than the one by way of Patundas and Batura glacier.