Rakaposh Peak, Rakapushi, Dumani (Mother of Mist)
May, June, July & August
Mike Banks, Tom Patey
Rakaposhi is one of the most magnificent and easily climbable peaks in Pakistan. With the height of 7,788 metres, Rakaposhi is a delight to ascend for a mountaineer. The peak is situated near Gilgit and one can see the majestic peak from the Karakoram Highway. Its beauty and easy ascendance attracts a number of adventure lovers to its scenic heights.
Mountaineers can scale the peak from all the sides. The Rakaposhi Peak is surrounded by beautiful valleys and glaciers, which add to the beauty of the mountaineering experience. So far a number of expeditions have been made to ascend the Rakaposhi Peak.
Rakaposhi is 11th highest in Pakistan and ranking 27th in World. The possibility of options to climb this peak from all sides lured the first Dutch expedition in summer 1938. Similarly in 1947 Tilman launched from the Kunti glicier but could not summit it. In 1954 six climbers including few scientists decided to climb it through the southwest spur but due to worst condition of weather kept away from summit. In 1958 the British, Pakistan joint expedition tried to defeat and some extent succeeded after getting frost bitten feet.